Small Parts Organizer Rack by S.O.P. Engineering (aka Adam Savage Sortimo Bin Inspiration)

First off, Sortimo bins are wicked expensive, this project would have been in the thousands of $$$ range, I'm not even going there... Even the Stanley version is fairly expensive.

There are many versions on the Interwebs of creating storage solutions from the Harbor Freight Tools parts storage containers (the serious budget alternative to Sortimo). I think I have come up with a solution based off my needs that combines many of the best ideas and adds a few of my own. Thanks to Adam Savage and everyone who has created a variation that they published on the web. You can see all the variations I've found here: Pinterest and Google Image Search

My working prototype that will hold 20 standard height drawers is now assembled. I learned quite a few things as I went (This page is a rough draft of the project that I will be fleshing out). #1 rule is not to cut your lumber when fighting off a cold. I measured twice (sometimes 3) and still made some mistakes ;-) Also when selecting lumber at the homecenter make sure that when flipping it on the stack to make sure it isn't warped to see if they put up the retaining rails. My first flip brought down a dozen fairly heavy deck boards with a close call of smashing my thumb.

Ebony stain goes on easy but the next one will have the stain applied first before assembly...

Not looking so good before stain...

Primary goals:

• Simple enough so anyone with basic tools can replicate it
• Minimal cost
• Allow enough slide out travel to allow bin lids to be flipped up (browse mode)
• Make drawers removable for easy access or reordering in stack
• Modular spacing to insert a double height organizer anywhere in the stack
• Portable enough to take the parts selection to the project in the shop/basement location

Parts sourced from Harbor Freight Tools with 20% off coupons

• Parts organizers, shallow and deep
• Cover are slightly opaque but primary usage is to open them to view
• 20% off coupons are usually one per visit for a single item
• Shallow organizers were roughly $8 each (exact amount pending)
• Super Coupons allow purchasing 8 at a time for $5.99 each!!!
• Harbor Freight Coupon Codes
• Hardwood Furniture Dolly
• Larger heavy duty version can be cut down to provide a secure base
• No extra hardware or wheels are needed unless you prefer locking wheels

Homecenter Sourced

• Deck planks for frame (pressure treated)
• 2x4 center structure reinforcement
• 18" European drawer slides, white epoxy coated - Ebay $64 shipped for a 20 pack!
• Homecenters have these for $5-10 each! Go to Ebay, quick free shipping
• #6 5/8" Phillips Flat Head Countersunk screws for drawer slides 

(Todo - list out all components with measurements)

• Inner width is critical, slides will not function correctly if not in spec
• must be 16 3/4" +/- 1/16"

When searching for a small part I like to be able to pull the drawer out and flip the lid, you can quickly go through a few drawers this way, I like to refer to it as browse mode. European drawer slides require that you get extra length for this to be able to support the drawer on the slides. I was willing to extend the cabinet depth for this feature. Standard drawer slides would not require the depth but are at least 3 times more expensive and aren't easily removable.

You can see here how much extra space is required to make browse mode feasible. The extra depth makes a cabinet of 20 standard height drawers fairly stable. A shorter version should easily fit under most workbenches and not protrude.

To make sort mode feasible I leave the bins unlatched and put this handy eye height reminder to myself (yes I have an entire drawer of earbuds and accessories, I always have a replacement when a tip goes flying).

I used standard pressure treated deck boards for the framework (cedar was twice as expensive and pressure treated feel more substantial). They are lighter and less awkward than a sheet of 1/2 plywood (and fit in most cars) and easier to work with if your ripping skills are limited. The open structure also makes for handy handholds when moving the unit around.

Drawers are removable by just pulling out and tilting the front up thanks to the European style slides. You can take the entire drawer to a project location, the protruding rails are only a slight hinderance.

The slides are mounted with #6 flat countersunk phillips head screws which minimizes screw head clearance interference. The front existing slide hole can be used but the rails need to be drilled for the back screw. Do not drill them in place, you will make the screw holes too big in the drawer material. The screws simply screw into the outer drawer material and are spaced to protrude up into the space between the bins. So far the rails have been secure using this method. I did experiment using computer fan mounting screws (made to mount in plastic/nylon which worked well) for a more secure fit or if the screw holes become stripped.

I spaced out the rails using a simple spacer of a couple of scraps to wood screwed together to get the dimension I wanted. It is critical to get consistent spacing. I set it up so the rails could accomodate a standard height organizer or you can just leave an upper space empty and insert a double height organizer. The double height organizer does require a couple of quick cuts on each corner with a hacksaw to clear the upper rails.

(Todo - get dimensions of spacer and outline double check technique)

(Todo - include pics of the clearance cuts)

The tall frame structure was bowing out slightly in the middle causing clearance issues with the slides/rails. I decided to sacrifice a drawer (for now). A scrap 2x4 cut squarely and exactly 16 3/4 inches wide provided just the right amount of support/bracing using my favorite 3" Grip Rite composite decking fasteners. These self drill and provide extra clamping plus the heads on these are the larger of the two sizes available and embed nicely into wood with no real splitting, I use them on many projects. An X brace on the back might be a better option once I source some steel strapping.

Drawer labeling is done with a vinyl label maker. I use a razor knife to strip off the injection molding seam at the front of the handle first. Capitalized first letters of each word seems to be the most legible, I tried all CAPS and it seemed to take up too much space. I think the human mind recognizes words in titles quicker if only the first letters are capitalized. I decided to stick with a single line of type to minimize label lift off from finger wrap around.

End (for now)